Torrente Fer, near the forest of
Cignas, is a beautiful place. It is easy to see why Camillo Benso, the
Count of Cavour, was devoted to this area: natural pools running between
large, smooth rocks, where emerald waters flow from one waterfall to
another. It is also a great place to go canyoning. A picnic area is not
far from the first set of pools, but it does get crowded here on summer
days. Walk for a few minutes to reach the upper pools where it is
secluded and quiet. The large boulders that surround the pools allow you
to dive or lie in the sun. A truly spectacular place.
2 Spiaggia Giamaica, Lombardy
In this region of great lakes, the Dolomites, and stunning green
valleys, the landscape is perfect for trekking, having fun in the sun,
or a dip in the water. In front of the Villa di Catullo is Spiaggia
Giamaica: a large slab of rock creating a beautiful, smooth, white-rock
beach surrounded by crystal-clear waters. Behind it is the famous villa
Grotte di Catullo. If the lake level is low enough you can walk around
to Lido delle Bionde: a beach with a pier, a bar and a lawn shaded by
olive trees.
3 Riva del Garda, Italian Lakes
Photograph: Michele Tameni
This relaxing area of meadows and an immaculate beach is equipped
for all sorts of activities. It makes a pleasant break after a visit to
the village and the view of the lake is simply magnificent. From Limone
head north on the SS45 for 10km and park on the road shortly after the
entrance to the village. Explore the streets of this pretty town and
visit its Museo Civico. Walk east for 15 minutes along the shore until you cross a bridge over a canal and there you will find the beach.
4 Pozze Smeraldine, Dolomites
In the Dolomiti Friulane natural park,
down in the Cellina valley on the way to the village of Barci are many
wild, unspoilt pools and gorges. The gem in this valley is higher in the
mountains, though. The Pozze Smeraldine are a short walk from the
village of Tramonti di Sopra on a mountain path. The colour of the
natural pools justifies their name: Emerald Pools. They are in an
isolated and enchanted area.
5 Candalla, Tuscany
In between the Alps and the Apennines, in northern Tuscany, in the
historic regions of Lunigiana and Garfagnana, the jewel is Candalla.
Here, among ruins and fig-scented woodlands, the Lombricese stream runs
over waterfalls and between natural pools. A trail starts from the old
mill of Candalla, and follows the stream on a tempting route through an
enchanted valley with many places to stop, dive (from the top of the
waterfall or into the pool below the mill) and relax in the shade of the
beautiful woods. There is also a great place that serves food on
terraces and balconies overlooking the river. A great place to eat is Osteria Candalla.
6 Bidente di Pietrapazza, Emilia Romagna
From the village of Santa Sofia you can begin to appreciate the beauty of the Monte Falterona national park.
The Pietrapazza river is a tributary of the Bidente, near Poggio alla
Lastra, where over the years the river has carved out large slabs of
rock, creating eddies and waterfalls. You’ll find natural pools, with
boulders and slabs of rock for sunbathing and diving; upstream from the
bridge, small waterfalls descend between boulders into lovely pools.
7 Mercatello sul Metauro, Abruzzo
The Marche region is full of surprises. The Cascata del Sasso, on
the Metauro river is one of the 10 largest waterfalls in Italy and is a
favourite spot for fishermen, too. Just 10 minutes upstream to the west,
on the edge of the medieval village of Mercatello sul Metauro, a
stunning river bends under a high cliff; here you will find small
waterfalls and two pools, among flaked rocks that seem to fall apart in
the sun. It’s perfect for picnics, as large trees and small clefts in
the rock provide shade. Nearby there is a pleasant park with tables and a
barbecue.
8 Terme del Bullicame, Lazio
If you prefer to escape the tourists, and the hustle and bustle of
the city, do as the Romans do and retreat to the green hills and
volcanic lakes of Lazio or visit charming Umbria, with hot springs and
majestic waterfalls. Just outside the ancient city of Viterbo in
northern Lazio are the Terme del Bullicame, mentioned by Dante in The
Divine Comedy. These are free thermal baths and the water comes from a
small crater now protected by a fence. The water temperature is about
58C and it flows through a series of small channels to feed into a pair
of turquoise pools (the smallest pool has this high temperature; the
larger pool is much cooler). There are no facilities, so remember to
bring drinking water, and perhaps a sun umbrella and suncream, as the
few fig trees around the pools don’t create much shade.
9 Cascata Capelli di Venere, Campania
In this wild green area, just a short distance from the spectacular
Amalfi coast, you’ll find breathtaking rocky canyons with freshwater
pools, streams and sparkling waterfalls. Head east from Morigerati
towards the town of Casaletto Spartano, to see the Cascata Capelli di
Venere, a waterfall named the “Hair of Venus”, made up of delicate
cascades. This is a truly spectacular spot to swim, so plunge in and
cool down under the fast-flowing rivulets of the small waterfall, which
flows over a cave covered with moss. From the car park another path goes
further downstream, leading to a bend with other beautiful pools to
explore. There are quiet places where you can pitch a tent. If you walk
up the slope of the hill above the pool, you will find a picnic area.
10 Rio Pitrisconi, Sardinia
Thanks to its geology Sardinia offers plenty of watery gems, from
volcanic plunge pools, lava-heated springs and gorges, to valleys carved
into limestone. Italy’s second-largest island is better known for its
beaches but in the north-eastern hills, above San Teodoro, the
Pitrisconi is a wild, narrow stream ravine with shiny granite pools.
From its highest “infinity” pool you can swim right to the edge and peer
over the huge waterfall below, with views of the sea beyond. The
granite rocks glow in shades of yellow, pink and orange, with the scent
of juniper and myrtle all around.
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